The phrase refers to a process used in garment construction, specifically when adapting sewing patterns to accommodate the bust measurement of the wearer. It addresses the crucial question of determining the appropriate amount of additional fabric, or “allowance,” needed in the bust area to achieve a comfortable and well-fitting garment. For instance, if a pattern’s bust measurement is 34 inches, and the wearer’s bust is 36 inches, an additional 2 inches of fabric distribution across the bust area may be required. A calculator, whether a physical tool or a digital application, assists in quantifying this allowance based on various factors such as cup size and desired fit.
Accurate bust allowance is paramount for achieving a flattering and comfortable fit in sewn garments. It prevents gaping at the armhole, pulling across the bust, and overall distortion of the garment’s intended silhouette. Historically, seamstresses relied on their experience and manual measurements to calculate this allowance. However, standardized charts and, more recently, digital calculators offer a more precise and accessible method, leading to improved accuracy and reduced fitting errors. The advantage of using a calculator resides in its capacity to process multiple variables quickly and consistently, thereby enhancing the overall sewing experience and the final product’s quality.